Merp, okay. I don't know how to start this post? I've never done a product/beauty post before, but one of my bffs said I should start blogging about skincare. And I can only post so many 10-second clips on my insta-stories every week offering some tips for shrinking those craters on your nose (by the way, you can't get rid of those...they're like armpit hair....but that's a different post for a different DAY). BT-dubs, this is not a sponsored post, there are no affiliate links...it's just me, talking about SKIN. Let's do this.
I could go on and on about this topic, but let's just start with the basics + why I care about my skin so dang much and isn't that a little vain no it's not
Since I was 12 or 13, I've had acne. Big pores, dry patches, weird bumps, all of it. And I loved to pick at my face when I was stressed or (ironically) when I was upset about my face. So I'd make it worse. Makes sense, right?!
My dermatologist prescribed really expensive + really strong creams that kinda burned my face off. My "routine" for about 10ish years was this:
1) wipe off makeup with Pond's Cold Cream (this is the only thing I did right)
2) wash face with Dove bar of soap (sigh)
3) slather on as much benzoyl peroxide as I could muster (hence, drying my skin up so it looked like a shriveled, peeling raisin)
As I got older, my hormones got weirder, and I would get these huge, painful cysts on my chin and jawline. I did not know they were hormonal, but I knew they made me want to stay in my house for days until they went away. Trying to conceal them made them look worse. I cried a lot. It seemed like no dermatologist could help me! I once went to a derm here in Logan and she touched my face a lot (red flag number one, yo) and simply said, "Well, what do you think you should do?" I was like "Uh, I'm not the doctor here! You tell me." She shrugged and said "Accutane?" My regular doc vetoed that option because of my past history with liver problems, and so...back to square one.
I don't know how or when, but I discovered Asian skincare pretty soon after that discouraging dermatologist visit. If you are unfamiliar with the 10-step routine, here are a few places to get yourself acquainted. It can be overwhelming, but don't do what I did and go out and buy all ten steps and immediately start putting them on your face. That's a no-no.
The "ten step" routine is meant to be customizable, because...and here's the big shocker...everyone's skin is different. Therefore, a magical cream that worked for your BFF might break you out. Some people can rub baking soda and lemon juice on their faces and nothing happens (but do not ever do that, or I will come after you with a tub of moisturizer and a salmon to slap you with). Start with the basics, then slowly add in other steps (if you think your skin wants/needs 'em). I should also mention that I am on an anti-androgen birth control pill, which helps tremendously with hormonal acne. The sad truth about hormonal acne is that topical stuff doesn't always work to get rid of it. Sometimes you have to fix the hormonies. But that's a different post, yoinks.
If you've never had a dang skincare routine, well here's a few myths I need to bust before you start one:
1) good skincare routines have to be expen$ive and I don't have that kind of money
2) my skin is not that important...I'll grow out of it...it's kind of vain to care this much about my body's biggest organ, isn't it?
3) natural skincare is much better for my skin! I don't want to use "chemicals," yuck!
4) I don't have time
5) sunscreen is for wusses (okay but people who say this--do you really think you're tougher than the sUN?! THE FREAKIN' SUN?!!)
Look at that list, and if you're imagining it in your mind, now I want you to imagine lighting it on fire. There, see? Now you don't have to be constrained by those limiting beliefs anymore. And your skin is already saying thankyousomuch.
Building a Basic Routine
A lot of people have messaged me saying where the heck do I start? I mean, I know...I used to just wash my face with Dove soap and then dump enough chemical exfoliation on it to clean twelve bathrooms. It's much easier than a basic routine, but..don't do that.
The first thing you need to know is that your skin is an organ. It's a sensitive organ, and it likes to be pampered. But it doesn't take much to pamper it! Really! I know you've probably seen a few "shelfies" where people flaunt their giant skincare collection and honestly, those kinds of posts overwhelm me a little bit. And I'm one to talk, my skincare routine is pretty extensive now (six steps), but it did not start that way. And it shouldn't! And just a tip: if you see a shelfie with more than 10 products on it, you can bet that person isn't using all of those products at the same time on their skin, they got them for free, or they bought them and the product didn't work for them so now they're stuck with it, but it looks nice on display.
Let's get science-y for a second. Your skin has a moisture barrier and a natural pH level. The natural pH of your facial skin is about 5.5, so if you put something on your face that's too basic, it will strip that moisture barrier right off. Goodbye facial slip-n-slide! Sayonara!
Here's the pH scale for reference:
So, when I say don't ever put baking soda on your face for any reason, this is why. You'll notice drain cleaner is the most basic, or alkaline...and what do you often see used in drain cleaners? Baking soda! Here's a good rule of thumb: if you would use it to clean your sink, don't use it on your face. When your moisture barrier is damaged, you are more prone to acne + irritation. Irritation causes more acne (hence when you pick or touch your face, more zits appear...bummer). And yeah, like I said, some people have good genes and they can slather all kinds of crap on their faces and they are plagued with nary a breakout, and ya know what, good for them. But also, their skin is probably secretly screaming at them. Don't be like them! Love your skin. :) Chemical exfoliants fall under the acidic side, so they will help neutralize your skin and bring it back to balance after you've washed it. Still confused? Here, read this!
A note about "chemicals": I used to work for a health food store, and the attitude amongst most customers was that any sort of "chemical" is "bad" for you. But guys...everything is made of chemicals! Even "natural" things involved some kind of chemistry when they were made by our divine creator. Why do you think your skin has a natural pH? Your gut? That's chemistry, baby. So when someone says "chemical exfoliation," do not run away screaming and cling tightly to your essential oils. There are much better, scientifically proven solutions. I promise.
If by "natural," you are looking for plant-derived ingredients only, there's some good options out there. Just don't fall for pseudoscience that tells you acids are terrible for your skin. If anything, they are meant for your skin (in moderation...don't go rubbing glycolic acid on your face every night as you're first starting out). And remember: when using chemical exfoliation of any kind, always moisturize and always use sunscreen.
So what things can I use on my face, McKenzie?! Well, this is tricky. The answer is sort of different for everyone. Some people have allergies to certain ingredients and they must avoid those (fatty alcohols, for example, which are in a lot of moisturizers). Some people's skin only likes a few layers of hydration--any more than that, and their pores start to clog. If you're wanting to try out a new product and would like to see which ingredients are comedogenic (typically cause acne), go here.
If you have extremely oily skin, you're probably like, "Uh, moisturizer? I don't need that. My skin is slick enough, thank you." But your skin might just be dehydrated. This was me. I never, ever moisturized my skin, despite constantly chemically exfoliating it. Ack! Not to mention I never wore sunscreen, which will fry your skin if you're already using chemical exfoliants to get that dead layer of skin off the top (always wear sunscreen). If your skin is not moisturized, it will start to overcompensate, creating more oil, hence you have oily skin and think you don't need moisturizer, and the cycle continues. But you can break the cycle! Here's a list of some good basic moisturizers.
Enough preaching! If I were just starting out, this would be my routine:
Step One: oil cleanser or makeup remover (I will talk about oil cleansing in a later post...but if you're weirded out about cleansing with oil, check this out). The reason I think Pond's Cold Cream is a good option is because one of the main ingredients is mineral oil, which is an awesome cleansing oil for some (again, it might break some people out...like everything. Know your skin and do your research before buying the first product someone recommends to you).
Here are my favorite oil cleansers:
(some Asian product names are a hilarious mouthful)
I like to mix oils, too. Jojoba + argan oil is my favorite combo
Step Two: gentle cleanser. I like foaming cleansers because they are supposed to be better for oily skin (they're typically more gentle than the kind of cleanser you have to suds yourself, so they keep that moisture barrier intact and aren't as likely to strip your skin, making it more oily....woof). These are my favorite cleansers:
awesome brand in general
another favorite brand. I would recommend basically anything they make.
Step Three (optional if you're just starting out): chemical exfoliation or prescription from your dermatologist. This is where those BHAs, AHAs, retinol, azelaic acids go! If you have no idea what I'm talking about, you can go here. I use Curology, which is a custom blend of chemical exfoliants for mah skin. I've loved it so far!
This is the probably the queen of all Asian skincare brands.
Paula's Choice has a very popular BHA as well.
The Ordinary Glycolic Acid (an AHA)
Pixi Glow Tonic is very similar, and beloved. Just a touch more $
Curology (online dermatologist + customized prescription. I use my HSA to pay for this, and it was worth it to me after other dermatologists did not help me. If you have a dermatologist you love, stick with them.)
Step Four: moisturizer! I feel like this is one of the most common steps that breaks people out. There are so many different types of moisturizers out there, it's hard to know which one your skin is going to love. I like to look out for standout ingredients: hyaluronic acid (gives your skin that plump glow, ahh yeah), niacinamide (helps fade acne scars), or ceramides. If a moisturizer has all three, that's a good sign. There are plenty of other great ingredients for your skin. I highly recommend this blog for all things skincare, and he has a section called "ingredients" (under Categories) that highlights many of the superstar ingredients you can look for.
Here are my favorite moisturizers:
Oh, CeraVe.
Be aware...this product has caused a lot of people to break out. It's one of those "love it or hate it" products. I happen to love it, and so does my skin! I bought a sample size before buying the huge tub in case it didn't work on my skin. I recommend you do this with any product before committing to the full size.
I also recommend reading her skincare blog. She does her research.
(I used a tiny sample of the Biossance one, and while I loved it, a $70 oil wasn't in my budget. This is $8 and works just as well, imo)
Step Five: Sunscreen. Do not skip this step. If I hear one more person say that sunscreen gives you cancer I'll probably scream. It's actually the opposite. Scientific proof for all you haterz. Now, get that sunscreen on and live your life.
MUAH
If the beauty industry stresses you out, read this article to bring you back down to earth. It shouldn't be complicated. It's simple!
Bottom line: invest in your skin, and it will pay you back with confidence, self-esteem, and the absence of skin cancer. I happen to really like that last one.
oh shoot, I almost forgot
What would a skincare post be without a before and after?
(please note: this is one year of progress)
I have a very smart daughter . I might have to read this over and over agin just to soak it all in.
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